For the finishing touch, the logo on Al’s jersey, I had a hard time finding a Red Wings patch that I could purchase in the correct size. So, I made my own using my Silhouette Cameo machine, some white heat transfer vinyl, and red vinyl that was as close to the red of my yarn as possible. I then used a needle and thread to attach it between the front two legs. You could definitely get away with no patch, or search online for a small patch if you don’t have access to these supplies.

Al the Octopus

Supplies Needed: 3.5 mm crochet hook, 2.0 mm crochet hook, light purple yarn, red yarn, white yarn, embroidery floss in black, white, and red, poly-fil, pipe cleaners (I used 16, but you could get away with 8), jersey patch (optional).

Stitch Abbreviations: sc – single crochet, hdc – half double crochet, sc2tog – single crochet two together, hdc2tog – half double crochet two together, inc – 2 single crochet (or specified stitch) in one stitch, ch – chain, slst – slip stitch, FLO – front loop only, BLO – back loop only.

Eyes (make 2 using 2.0 mm hook, white embroidery floss)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc, ch 1, turn.

Round 2: sc, inc 4 times, sc, ch 1, turn.

Round 3: *inc, sc next 2* repeat * to * 4 times total, sc last stitch, ch 1, turn.

Round 4: sc first stitch, *sc 3, inc* repeat * to * 4 times total.

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing to head.

Once both eyes are created, attach black embroidery floss to the edge of one eye, ch 5, begin stitches in 2nd chain from hook, sc across chains and the flat edge of both eyes to connect them together, ch 5 at the edge of the second eye, begin stitches in 2nd chain from hook, sc 4, slst to edge of eye white. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing the eyebrow onto the head.

Irises (make 2 using 2.0 mm hook, red embroidery floss)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: inc in each stitch around.

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing onto the eyes you have already created. Add an 8 mm safety eye to the center of each iris before attaching to the eyes.

Body/Head (3.5 mm hook, red yarn)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: inc in each stitch around.

Round 3: *inc, sc next* repeat * to * around. (18 stitches)

Round 4: *sc first stitch, inc, sc next stitch* repeat * to * around.

Round 5: *inc, sc next 5* repeat * to * around. (30 stitches)

Round 6: *sc 2, inc, sc next 2* repeat * to * around.

Round 7: *inc, sc next 5* repeat * to * around. (42 stitches)

Round 8: *sc 3 stitches, inc, sc next 3* repeat * to * around.

Round 9: *inc, sc next 7* repeat * to * around. (54 stitches)

Round 10: BLO sc around.

Round 11 – Round 17: sc around.

Change to light purple yarn.

Round 18: BLO *sc2tog, sc next 7* repeat * to * around.

Round 19 – Round 28: sc around.

Round 29: *inc, sc next 7* repeat * to * around.

Round 30 – Round 31: sc around.

Round 32: *sc 4, inc, sc next 4* repeat * to * around. (60 stitches)

Round 33 – Round 37: sc around.

Round 38: *sc2tog, sc next 8* repeat * to * around.

Round 39: sc around.

Assemble eyes and sew into place between rounds 33 and 37 of head/body.

Round 40: *sc2tog, sc next 7* repeat * to * around. (48 stitches)

Round 41: *sc 3, sc2tog, sc next 3* repeat * to * around.

Round 42: sc around.

Round 43: *sc2tog, sc next 5* repeat * to * around. (36 stitches)

Stuff head and body, continue stuffing as you complete the remaining rounds.

Round 44: *sc 2, sc2tog, sc next 2* repeat * to * around.

Round 45: *sc2tog, sc next 3* repeat * to * around. (24 stitches)

Round 46: *sc, sc2tog, sc next* repeat * to * around.

Round 47: *sc2tog, sc* repeat * to * around. (12 stitches)

Round 48: sc2tog around.

Fasten off, weave tail into the remaining stitches to close the top of the head. Use black embroidery floss to create a mouth between rounds 27 and 30.

Collar (3.5 mm hook, red yarn)

Round 1: attach yarn to FLO of round 18 of the body at the front center, slst 2, hdc 44, slst last 2.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Legs (light purple yarn, make 8 using 3.5 mm hook)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: *inc, sc next 2* repeat * to * around. (8 stitches)

Round 3: sc around.

Round 4: inc 2 times, sc next, sc2tog 2 times, sc next. (8 stitches)

Round 5: sc around.

Round 6: sc, hdc inc 2 times, sc next 2, sc2tog, sc. (8 stitches)

Round 7: sc around.

Round 8: sc 2, hdc inc 3 times, sc 2, sc2tog. (11 stitches)

Round 9: sc around.

Round 10: sc 4, inc 2 times, sc next 3, sc2tog.

Round 11: sc around.

Stuff tip of leg. Stick 1-2 pipe cleaners in each leg to aid in structure.

Round 12: sc2tog, sc next 2, hdc inc 4 times, sc next 2, sc2tog. (14 stitches)

Round 13: sc around.

Round 14: sc2tog, sc next 3, hdc inc 4 times, sc 3, sc2tog. (16 stitches)

Round 15: sc around.

Round 16: sc2tog, sc 4, hdc inc 4 times, sc next 4, sc2tog. (18 stitches)

Round 17: sc around

Round 18: sc2tog, sc next 5, hdc inc 4 times, sc next 5, sc2tog. (20 stitches)

Round 19: sc around.

Round 20 – Round 22: sc2tog, sc next 6, hdc inc 3 times, sc next 5, sc2tog 2 times. (20 stitches)

Round 23 – Round 34: sc around.

Fasten off, weave in ends and stuff the remainder of legs to prepare to attach sleeves.

Sleeves (red yarn, make 8 using 3.5 mm hook)

Round 1: ch 26, slst to create ring, sc 26 around ring.

Round 2: sc around.

Change to white yarn.

Round 3: BLO hdc around.

Change to red yarn.

Round 4: BLO sc around.

Round 5 – Round 8: sc around.

Round 9: sc 1, *sc2tog, sc next 3* repeat * to * around. (21 stitches)

Round 10: put sleeve over each leg, create stitches through both sleeve and leg to connect them, sc around.

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing the leg to the body.

I like to complete all sleeves and legs and pin them in place on the body (leaving a gap at the front) before I begin sewing to make sure that I like the placement.

The post Get Hooked on Hockeytown! Crochet Your Own Al the Octopus! appeared first on GETTING HOOKED ON CROCHET.

We’ll start with the iconic pink dress, then create shoes, hair, and a tiara to finish the look!

The Good Pink Witch Accessory Set

Supplies Needed: bubblegum pink yarn, pale yellow yarn, silver/gray yarn, 3.25 mm crochet hook.

Stitch Abbreviations Used: sc – single crochet, ch – chain, dc – double crochet, sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together, hdc2tog – half double crochet two stitches together, BLO – back loop only, FLO – front loop only, slst – slip stitch.

Dress (bubblegum pink yarn, begins in rows and is then connected into rounds)

Row 1: Leave a 12 inch long tail before you begin for sewing the dress onto your doll, ch 37, begin stitches in 2nd chain from hook, sc each of the first 17 chains, 2 sc in each of the next 2 chains, sc next 17 chains, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: *sc first 5 stitches, ch 4, skip next 8 stitches, sc next 5,* 2 sc in each of the next 2 stitches, repeat * to * one time, ch 1, turn.

Row 3 – Row 6: sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 7: *sc first 7, 2 sc in next stitch, sc next 8* repeat * to * across, ch 1, turn.

Row 8: sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: sc across, slst to first sc of row.

This begins the creation of the skirt. You will continue the pattern working in rounds.

Round 10: ch 2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), FLO *2 dc in first stitch, dc next* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch of round.

Round 11: ch 2, BLO dc around, slst to first stitch of round.

Round 12 – Round 15: ch 2, dc around, slst to first stitch of round.

Round 16: ch 2, BLO *2 dc in first stitch, dc in next* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch of round.

Round 17: ch 2, *dc first stitch, 2 dc in next, dc following stitch* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch of round.

Round 18 – Round 20: ch 2, dc around, slst to first stitch of round.

Round 21: ch 1, sc around, slst to first stitch of round.

Fasten off, weave in ends. Create one skirt ruffle in the unworked front loops of rounds 11 and 16. Put the dress on your doll base and then use the tail you left before row 1 to sew up the back seam of the dress.

Skirt Ruffle (make 2, bubblegum pink yarn)

Round 1: attach yarn to unworked front loop of skirt, ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), *2 dc in first stitch, dc in next* repeat * to * around, slst to first dc of ruffle.

Round 2: ch 1, sc around, slst to first sc of round.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Hair (pale yellow yarn)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2 – Round 3: 2 sc in each stitch around. (24 stitches to end round 3)

Round 4: *2 sc in first stitch, sc in next 3* repeat * to * around. (30 stitches)

Round 5: *sc first 2 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch, sc each of the following 2 stitches* repeat * to * around.

Round 6: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 5* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch of round. (42 stitches)

Round 7: *ch 31, begin stitches in 2nd chain from hook, sc 30, slst to next unworked stitch of round 6* repeat * to * around. (42 strands of hair)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing the hair onto the dolls head.

I like to use stitch markers to help fasten round 6 of the hair onto the head to get an idea of placement and how exactly I want to style/fasten the hair. It can be slightly different depending on the way that the head is stuffed/detailed.

Shoes (make 2, silver/gray yarn)

Round 1: ch 6, begin stitches in 2nd chain from hook, 2 sc in first chain, sc next 3, 4 sc in last chain, turn to continue working along the opposite side of the foundation chain, sc next 3 stitches, 2 sc in final chain.

Round 2: 2 sc in first stitch, sc next 5, 2 sc each of the next 2 stitches, sc next 5, 2 sc in last stitch.

Round 3: 2 sc in each of the first 2 stitches, sc next 5, 2 sc each of the next 4 stitches, sc next 5, 2 sc in each of the last 2 stitches. (26 stitches)

Round 4: BLO sc around.

Round 5 – Round 6: sc around.

Round 7: sc each of the first 9, sc2tog 4 times, sc last 9.

Round 8: sc first 7, hdc2tog 4 times, sc last 7.

Fasten off, weave in ends. If you want the shoes to remain removable from the doll, just slide them over the feet. If you want the shoes secured to the feet, tack them to the feet/legs at the front and back of each leg.

Tiara (silver/gray yarn)

Row 1: ch 16, begin stitches in 2nd chain from hook, sc 15, turn.

Row 2: *ch 4, skip 2 stitches of previous row, slst to next stitch* repeat * to * 1 more time, ch 7, skip next 2 stitches of previous row, slst, repeat * to * 2 more times, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: sc 5 in each of the first 2 chain spaces, [sc 5, ch 2, sc 5] all into the ch 7 space of row 2, sc 5 in each of the last 2 chain spaces.

Fasten off, weave in ends. Use the starting tail to secure the tiara into the hair after the hair is secured to the doll’s head.

Don’t forget to go back to the doll base pattern and make another one with green yarn (I used Red Heart Super Saver in Spring Green), to create our version of Elphaba.

The post This Pink Witch Accessory Set is Gonna be Popular! appeared first on GETTING HOOKED ON CROCHET.

Ruffle Bucket Hat

Supplies Needed: worsted weight yarn (I used Caron Simply Soft), H (5.0 mm) hook, yarn needle.

Stitch Abbreviations: ch – chain, sc – single crochet, hdc – half double crochet, dc – double crochet, slst – slip stitch, FLO – front loop only.

6-12 month Hat

Round 1: magic ring – ch 2, dc 10, slst to first dc of round.

Round 2: ch 2, 2 dc in each stitch around, slst to first dc of round.

Round 3: ch 2, *2 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next stitch* repeat * to * around, slst to first dc of round. (30 stitches)

Round 4: ch 2, *2 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 2 stitches* repeat * to * around, slst to first dc of round.

Round 5: ch 2, *2 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 9 stitches* repeat * to * around, slst to first dc of round. (44 stitches)

Round 6: ch 2, *2 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 10 stitches* repeat * to * around, slst to first dc of round. (48 stitches)

Round 7 – Round 11: ch 2, dc in each stitch around, slst to first dc of round.

Round 12: ch 2, FLO 2 dc in each stitch around, slst to first dc of round. (96 stitches)

Round 13: ch 1, *2 sc in first stitch, 1 sc in next stitch* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch of round.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Toddler (1-3 years) Hat

Round 1: magic ring – ch 2, dc 10, slst to first dc of round.

Round 2: ch 2, 2 dc in each stitch around, slst to first dc of round.

Round 3: ch 2, *2 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next stitch* repeat * to * around, slst to first dc of round. (30 stitches)

Round 4: ch 2, *2 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 2 stitches* repeat * to * around, slst to first dc of round.

Round 5: ch 2, *2 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 3 stitches* repeat * to * around, slst to first dc of round.

Round 6: ch 2, *2 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 24 stitches* repeat * to * around, slst to first dc of round. (52 stitches)

Round 7 – Round 12: ch 2, dc in each stitch around, slst to first dc of round.

Round 13: ch 2, FLO 2 dc in each stitch around, slst to first dc of round. (104 stitches)

Round 14: ch 1, *2 hdc in first stitch, 1 hdc in next stitch* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch of round.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Child (~3-8 years) Hat

Round 1: magic ring – ch 2, dc 10, slst to first dc of round.

Round 2: ch 2, 2 dc in each stitch around, slst to first dc of round.

Round 3: ch 2, *2 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next stitch* repeat * to * around, slst to first dc of round. (30 stitches)

Round 4: ch 2, *2 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 2 stitches* repeat * to * around, slst to first dc of round.

Round 5: ch 2, *2 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 3 stitches* repeat * to * around, slst to first dc of round.

Round 6: ch 2, *2 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 9 stitches* repeat * to * around, slst to first dc of round. (55 stitches)

Round 7 – Round 13: ch 2, dc in each stitch around, slst to first dc of round.

Round 14: ch 2, FLO 2 dc in each stitch around, slst to first dc of round. (110 stitches)

Round 15: ch 1, *2 hdc in first stitch, 1 hdc in next stitch* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch of round.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Now you’re ready for the warm weather! Be sure to send some pictures of your finished creation!

The post Hat’s Off to This Adorable Ruffle Bucket Hat Pattern! appeared first on GETTING HOOKED ON CROCHET.

I’d love to hear your suggestions on what types of doll accessories you’d like to create!

Doll Base Pattern

Supplies Needed: skin tone worsted weight yarn, white/off-white worsted weight yarn, 3.25 mm crochet hook, poly-fil stuffing, 12 mm safety eyes, a flexible foam hair roller (optional for extra stability in the head/neck of your doll, I like these from Dollar Tree).

Stitch Abbreviations Used: sc – single crochet, ch – chain, bobble – 4 double crochet together in the same stitch, sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together, hdc2tog – half double crochet two stitches together, BLO – back loop only.

Arms (make 2, skin tone yarn)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around.

Round 3: *2 sc in first stitch, sc each of the next 5* repeat * to * around. (14 stitches)

Round 4 – Round 5: sc around.

Round 6: bobble, sc next 13 stitches.

Round 7: *sc2tog, sc each of the next 5 stitches* repeat * to * around. (12 stitches)

Round 8: *sc first 2, sc2tog, sc next 2* repeat * to * around. (10 stitches)

Round 9 – Round 20: sc around.

Fasten off, lightly add a small amount of stuffing to the hands/lower arms. Set the arms aside to attach directly to the body.

Legs (make 2, skin tone yarn)

Round 1: ch 5, begin stitches in 2nd chain from hook, 2 sc in first stitch, sc each of the next 2, 4 sc in farthest chain from hook, turn to continue working on the opposite side of the foundation chain, sc next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the final stitch of the round.

Round 2: 2 sc in first stitch, sc next 4 stitches, 2 sc in each of the next 2 stitches, sc next 4 stitches, 2 sc in final stitch of round. (16 stitches)

Round 3: 2 sc in each of the first 2 stitches, sc next 4 stitches, 2 sc in each of the next 4 stitches, sc next 4, 2 sc in each of the final 2 stitches. (24 stitches)

Round 4 – Round 5: sc around.

Round 6: sc first 8, sc2tog four times, sc last 8. (20 stitches)

Round 7: sc first 6, hdc2tog four times, sc last 6. (16 stitches)

Round 8: sc first 6, hdc2tog two times, sc last 6. (14 stitches)

Round 9 – Round 22: sc around.

Fasten off leg 1, repeat to create leg 2. Do not fasten off leg 2, change to white yarn after last stitch of round 22 and continue directly to body/head.

Body/Head (white yarn)

Round 1: sc 3, ch 2, place marker (this will be the new start of round). Pick up leg 1, line up both feet to go in the same direction, begin stitches on leg 1 3 stitches from fasten off. Sc 32 around both legs and in both sides of each chain.

Round 2 – Round 5: sc around.

Change to skin tone yarn.

Round 6: BLO sc around.

Begin stuffing legs.

Round 7: *sc2tog, sc next 6* repeat * to * around. (28 stitches)

Round 8 – Round 10: sc around.

Round 11: *sc first 3 stitches, sc2tog, sc next 2 stitches* repeat * to * around. (24 stitches)

Round 12 – Round 14: sc around.

Continue stuffing body.

Round 15: sc first 4 stitches, pick up arm 1 and line it up next to body, sc 4 to connect arm to body, continue stitches along body, sc next 8 stitches, pick up arm 2 and line it up next to body, sc 4 to connect arm to body, continue stitches along body, sc last 4 stitches of round.

Round 16: sc first 3, now continue working stitches around the outer (previously unworked) stitches of arm), sc2tog in unworked stitch of body and first outer arm stitch, sc next 4 stitches of outer arm, sc2tog in remaining stitch of outer arm and next stitch of body, sc next 6 stitches of body, now continue working stitches around the outer (previously unworked) stitches of arm), sc2tog in unworked stitch of body and first outer arm stitch, sc next 4 stitches of outer arm, sc2tog in remaining stitch of outer arm and next stitch of body, sc last 3 stitches of body.

Round 17: *sc 1 stitch, sc2tog, sc next stitch* repeat * to * around.

Round 18: *sc2tog, sc next* repeat * to * around. (12 stitches)

Round 19 – Round 20: sc around.

Stuff body. If you are using a foam roller to support the neck, place that into the body so that a small amount is still exposed at the top and firmly stuff around it.

Round 21: 2 sc in each stitch around.

Round 22: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 3* repeat * to * around. (30 stitches)

Round 23: *sc each of the first 2 stitches, 2 sc, sc each of the next 2 stitches* repeat * to * around.

Round 24: *2 sc in first stitch, sc each of the next 5* repeat * to * around.

Round 25: *sc each of the first 3 stitches, 2 sc, sc each of the next 3 stitches* repeat * to * around. (48 stitches)

Round 26 – Round 35: sc around

Stuff neck area firmly.

Attach safety eyes between rounds 33 and 34 with 5 stitches in between.

Round 36: *sc2tog, sc next 6* repeat * to * around.

Round 37: *sc first 3 stitches, sc2tog, sc next 2 stitches* repeat * to * around. (36 stitches)

Round 38: sc around.

Begin stuffing head, continue adding stuffing as you work through remaining rounds.

Round 39: *sc2tog, sc next 4* repeat * to * around.

Round 40: *sc first 3, sc2tog* repeat * to * around.

Round 41 – Round 42: sc2tog around.

Fasten off, use tail to weave remaining stitches closed.

Ears (skin tone yarn, make 2)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing to sides of head so that top of ear is in line with eyes.

Now the fun begins! How will you dress and accessorize your doll?! I’ll add more patterns for hair, outfits, and accessories based on all of your suggestions so be sure to check back here!

The post Let’s Get All Dolled up! appeared first on GETTING HOOKED ON CROCHET.

I’ve been returning to some of my favorite crochet blogs to make some hats with their patterns, but I’m also coming up with some of my own! Follow along if you have a little love in your life to create a hat for (or if you want to have some fun using up some excess yarn to donate)!

Baby Bear Beanie

Supplies Needed: worsted weight yarn, 5.0 mm crochet hook, yarn needle.

Stitch Abbreviations Used: hdc – half double crochet, sc – single crochet, slst – slip stitch, fphdc – front post half double crochet, bphdc – back post half double crochet.

Newborn Beanie

Round 1: magic ring – ch 2, 8 hdc into ring, slst to first stitch of round.

Round 2: ch 2, 2 hdc in each stitch around, slst to first stitch of round. (16 stitches)

Round 3: ch 2, *2 hdc, hdc next stitch* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch of round.

Round 4: ch 2, *hdc in first stitch, 2 hdc in next stitch, hdc in following stitch* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch around. (32 stitches)

Round 5: ch 2, *2 hdc in first stitch, hdc next 3* repeat * to * around. (40 stitches)

Round 6 – Round 10: ch 2, hdc around, slst to first stitch of round.

Round 11 – Round 12: ch 2, *fphdc in first, bphdc in next* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch of round.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Ears (make 2)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around.

Round 3: *2 sc in first stitch, sc in next* repeat * to * around. (18 stitches)

Round 4 – Round 6: sc around.

Round 7: *sc2tog, sc next 4* repeat * to * around. (15 stitches)

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing to top of hat. I usually sew the ears in a curved line between rounds 2 and 4 of the hat.

Top Knot Baby Beanie

Supplies Needed: worsted weight yarn, 5.0 mm crochet hook, yarn needle.

Stitch Abbreviations Used: hdc – half double crochet, slst – slip stitch, fphdc – front post half double crochet, bphdc – back post half double crochet.

Round 1: magic ring – ch 2, 6 hdc, slst to first stitch.

Round 2 – Round 10: ch 2, hdc around, slst to first stitch around.

Round 11: ch 2, *2 hdc in first, hdc next 2* repeat * to *. (8 stitches)

Round 12: ch 2, 2 hdc in each stitch around.

Round 13: ch 2, *2 hdc, hdc next stitch* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch of round.

Round 14: ch 2, *hdc in first stitch, 2 hdc in next stitch, hdc in following stitch* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch around. (32 stitches)

Round 15: ch 2, *2 hdc in first stitch, hdc next 3* repeat * to * around. (40 stitches)

Round 16 – Round 20: ch 2, hdc around, slst to first stitch of round.

Round 21 – Round 22: ch 2, *fphdc in first, bphdc in next* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch of round.

Fasten off, weave in ends. Tie a knot between round 1 and round 10.

The post Tiny Hats for Tiny Loves! appeared first on GETTING HOOKED ON CROCHET.

This easy, fun, and most importantly cute drool bib is the perfect way to keep your little one dry and full of team spirit!

Ty the Tiger Drool Bib

Supplies Needed: cotton yarn in orange, black, and white (I used Sugar ‘n Cream), H (5.0 mm) hook, and a button.

Stitch Abbreviations Used: sc – single crochet, slst – slip stitch, ch – chain, sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together, hdc – half double crochet, dc – double crochet, trc – treble crochet.

Bib (worked in rows, orange yarn)

Row 1: ch 17, begin stitches in 2nd chain from hook, 2 sc in first stitch, sc next 14, 2 sc in last chain, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: 2 sc in first stitch, sc next 16, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: 2 sc in first stitch, sc each of the next 18, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn. (22 stitches)

Row 4: 2 sc in first stitch, sc next 20, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: 2 sc in first stitch, sc next 22, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn.

Row 6: 2 sc in first stitch, sc next 24, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn.

Row 7 – Row 30: sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (28 stitches)

Row 31: sc 8, ch 1, turn. Leave remaining stitches of row 30 unworked.

Row 32: sc2tog, sc next 4, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 33 – Row 44: sc 6 across, ch 1, turn.

Row 45: sc2tog, sc next 2, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 46: sc2tog 2 times.

Fasten off. Attach yarn to opposite corner of row 30 and work rows 31-46 to create strap 2.

At the end of row 46 on strap two, ch 1 and sc around the entire bib. When you get to the top of strap 2, ch 6 and slst back to the top of strap 2 to create the button loop. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Attach the button to the top of strap 1.

Pupils (black yarn, make 2)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 hdc.

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing to the eye whites.

Eyes (white yarn, make 2)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around, slst to first stitch of round.

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing to 25 of the bib. Attach one pupil to each eye before sewing onto the bib.

Stripes (black yarn, make 6)

Row 1: ch 6, begin stitches in 2nd chain from hook, slst first stitch, sc next, hdc, dc, trc in final chain.

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing.

Attach to bib in groups of 2. Put one group in the center of the bib at row 30, pointing toward the bottom of the bib. Add other groups to either side of the bib at row 15, pointing toward to opposite side of the bib.

Cheeks (white yarn, make 2)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around.

Round 3: *2 sc in first stitch, sc in next* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch of round.

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing to bib so that the top of each cheek is touching row 14. Leave about 3 stitches between the cheeks.

Embroider whiskers onto each cheek with black yarn.

Nose (black yarn)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 stitches)

Round 3: sc first 3 stitches, ch 2, sc next 6 stitches, ch 2, sc final 3 stitches, ch 2, slst to first stitch of round.

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing so that the top of the nose (the sc 6 section) touches tow 17 and the edges touch the cheeks on either side.

Ears (make 2, orange yarn)

Row 1: ch 9, begin stitches in 2nd chain from hook, sc 8, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: sc2tog, sc next 4, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: sc2tog, sc next 2 stitches, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: sc2tog two times, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: sc2tog.

Fasten off, weave in ends. Sew row 1 of each ear on an angle to each side of the bib between rows 25 and 30 of the bib.

The post Ty the Tiger Baby Drool Bib: Perfect Tigers Baseball Gear for Your Little Fan appeared first on GETTING HOOKED ON CROCHET.

Elfie the Elephant Drool Bib

Supplies: cotton yarn in your choice of main color (~1 skein of Sugar ‘n Cream) and inner ear color (small amount), black cotton yarn, white yarn scraps, H hook, and 2 buttons.

Stitch Abbreviations Used: sc – single crochet, slst – slip stitch, ch – chain, sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together, hdc – half double crochet.

Bib (worked in rows, main color)

Row 1: ch 17, begin stitches in 2nd chain from hook, sc 16, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: 2 sc in first stitch, sc each of the next 14 stitches, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: 2 sc in first stitch, sc next 16, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn. (20 stitches)

Row 4: 2 sc in first stitch, sc next 18 stitches, 2 sc in last, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: 2 sc in first stitch, sc next 20, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn.

Row 6 – Row 30: sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (24 stitches)

Row 31: sc 6, ch 1, turn. Leave remaining stitches of row 30 unworked.

Row 32 – Row 44: sc 4, ch 1, turn.

Row 45: sc2tog, sc 2, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 46: sc2tog two times.

Fasten off.

Attach yarn to the opposite end of row 30 and work rows 31-46 to create strap 2.

At the end of row 46 on strap 2, ch 1, sc around entire bib. When you get to the top of strap 2, ch 6 and slst into the same stitch to create button loop. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Attach button to top of strap 1.

Trunk (main color, worked in rows)

Row 1: ch 13, begin stitches in 2nd chain from hook, sc 12, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: sc2tog, sc next 8, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: sc2tog, sc 6, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 6: sc2tog, sc next 4, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 7: sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 8: sc2tog, sc next 2, sc 2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 10: sc2tog, sc, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn.

Row 11 – Row 12: sc across, ch 1, turn. (4 stitches)

Row 13: 2 sc in first stitch, sc, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 14 – Row 15: sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 16: sc2tog, sc, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn.

Row 17 – Row 18: sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 19: 2 sc in first stitch, sc, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 20 – Row 21: sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 22: sc2tog, sc, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn.

Row 23 – Row 24: sc across, ch 1, turn, sc around entire edge, when you get to opposite end of row 24, sc, slst, ch 8, begin slsts in 5th chain from hook, slst 4 along chain, slst to trunk, slst to turning chain.

Optional: If you don’t want to pacifier clip loop on the trunk, just sc around the entire edge.

Fasten off, sew to center of bib at row 19.

Attach a button to the underside of trunk at row 24, this is where you will secure the pacifier loop.

Large Ear Circles (inner ear color, make 2)

Round 1: magic ring – ch 2, 6 hdc, slst to first hdc.

Round 2: ch 2, 2 hdc in each stitch around, slst to first hdc of round.

Round 3: ch 2, *2 hdc in first stitch, 2 hdc in next* repeat * to * around, slst to first hdc of round. (18 stitches)

Round 4: ch 2, *2 hdc in first stitch, hdc in each of the next 2* repeat * to * around, slst to first hdc of round.

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing to smaller ear circle.

Small Ear Circle (inner ear color, make 2)

Round 1: magic ring – ch 2, 6 hdc, slst to first hdc.

Round 2: ch 2, 2 hdc in each stitch around, slst to first hdc of round.

Round 3: ch 2, *2 hdc in first stitch, hdc in next* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch of round.

Fasten off, weave in tail. Sew one small and one large inner ear circle together using 4 stitches of each ear piece to create each of the ears.

Ear Edging (main color, worked on each of the ears after circles are attached to each other)

Round 1: attach yarn to one of the stitches closest to where you connected the circles, ch 2, *2 hdc in first stitch, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 stitches* repeat * to * around. 2 hdc in last stitch, slst to first hdc of round.

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing ears to the outer edges on each side of the bib.

Eyes (black yarn, make 2)

Round 1: magic ring – ch 1, 6 hdc.

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing to bib.

Create a french knot on each eye with white yarn scraps before sewing onto the bib at row 25.

Let me know what type of bib you’d like to see next!

The post Lets Have Some Ele-FUN-t Making a New Drool Bib! appeared first on GETTING HOOKED ON CROCHET.

If you grew up in the 90s, you definitely remember the iconic corner toy hammock overflowing with Beanie Babies and your favorite plushies. That colorful net swinging in the corner wasn’t just storage — it was a statement. Today, 90s bedroom decor is making a major comeback, and this free beginner-friendly crochet toy hammock pattern brings all the nostalgic vibes with a handmade twist. Whether you’re channeling retro pastel bedrooms, Y2K aesthetics, or just need a cute way to organize stuffed animals, this easy crochet project is the perfect throwback-meets-functional decor piece for any cozy space.

Crochet Toy Hammock Pattern

Supplies Needed: worsted weight yarn, 3.75 mm crochet hook, yarn needle.

Stitch Abbreviations Used: ch – chain, dc – double crochet, sc – single crochet.

*Finished measurement – corner to front edge was roughly 32 inches when I completed. You can easily adjust the size to be bigger or smaller but stopping the repeated pattern rows earlier or continuing to follow the same pattern beyond the listed rows.

Toy Hammock

Row 1: ch 3, begin stitches in furthest chain from hook, 2 dc in same stitch, turn work.

Row 2: ch 5 (counts as first stitch of row and creates the first chain space, here and throughout), dc, ch 3, dc next stitch, turn work.

Row 3: ch 5, *dc in chain space, ch 3* 2 times, dc in 2nd chain of previous row turning chain, turn work.

Row 4: ch 5, *dc in chain space, ch 3* 3 times, dc in 2nd chain of previous row turning chain, turn work.

Row 5 – Row 48: continue with same pattern, adding one additional *dc in chain space, ch 3* repetition to each row, turn work.

Row 49: ch 5, *dc in chain space, ch 3* 48 times, dc in 2nd chain of previous row turn chain, turn work.

Row 50: ch 1, 2 sc in first stitch, 3 sc in chain space, *sc, 3 sc in chain space* repeat across, 2 sc in 2nd chain of previous row turn chain, turn work.

Row 51 – Row 54: ch 1 (does not count as stitch), sc across, turn work.

Row 55: sc around outer edge. At each corner, add a chain 4 loop (sc in corner, ch 4, sc in same corner stitch again to create loop).

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Congrats! You’ve completed a super cute toy hammock to store all sorts of toys!

Hanging

We used some photo/art hanging hooks, but you could also use command hooks for a more temporary solution.

Find the corner where you would like to hang your toy hammock, in the corner. Measure and place a hook 32 inches in each direction from your corner hook.

Now, all that is left to do is to attach each corner loop to the hooks you just placed and fill up the hammock with all your favorite animals!

Don’t forget to send me a picture of your finished creation and check back for more fun projects here!

The post Recreate Some 90s Bedroom Style with this Crochet Toy Hammock Throwback Pattern! appeared first on GETTING HOOKED ON CROCHET.

This is a fun, beginner-friendly pattern perfect for a stuffed animal loving birthday celebration!

Harriet the “Happy Birthday” Hippo

Supplies Needed: medium rose yarn, magenta yarn, purple yarn, white yarn, a small amount of orange yarn, a pair of 15 mm safety eyes, 3.5 mm crochet hook, yarn needle, and polyfil stuffing.

Stitch Abbreviations Used: ch – chain, sc – single crochet, sc2tog, single crochet two together, slst – slip stitch, hdc – half double crochet, bobble – 4 double crochet bobble stitch, FLO – front loop only, BLO – back loop only.

Approximate Finished Size: using a 3.5 mm hook and worsted weight yarn, Harriet the Hippo measures about 9 inches tall.

Head (medium rose yarn)

Round 1: ch 7, begin stitches in 2nd chain from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last chain, turn to continue working along to opposite side of the foundation chain, sc 4, 2 sc in last stitch. (14 stitches)

Round 2: 2 sc in first stitch, sc each of the next 4 stitches, 2 sc in each of the next 3 stitches, sc next 4, 2 sc in each of the last 2 stitches.

Round 3: *2 sc in first stitch, 1 sc in next stitch, sc each of the next 4 stitches, repeat * to * 3 times, sc each of the next 4 stitches, repeat * to * 2 times. (26 stitches)

Round 4: 2 sc in first stitch, sc each of the next 10 stitches, 2 sc in each of the next 3 stitches, sc next 10, 2 sc in each of the last 2 stitches.

Round 5: 2 sc in first stitch, sc each of the next 12 stitches, *2 sc in first stitch, sc next* repeat * to * 2 times, sc each of the next 13 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, sc in last stitch. (36 stitches)

Round 6: sc each of the first 5 stitches, bobble, sc next 5, bobble, sc each of the next 24 stitches.

Round 7 – Round 9: sc around.

Round 10: *sc2tog, sc next 4* repeat * to * around. (30 stitches)

Round 11: *sc2tog, sc next 3* repeat * to * around. (24 stitches)

Round 12: sc around.

You have now created the nose/snout, you will continue working to create the rest of the head.

Round 13: sc each of the first 2 stitches, 2 sc in each of the next 6 stitches, sc each of the next 16 stitches.

Round 14: sc each of the first 2 stitches, *2 sc in next stitch, sc next* repeat * to * 6 times, sc each of the next 16 stitches. (36 stitches)

Round 15: sc each of the first 2 stitches, *2 sc in first stitch, sc each of the next 2 stitches* repeat * to * 6 times, sc each of the next 16 stitches. (42 stitches)

Round 16: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 6 stitches* repeat * to * around. (48 stitches)

Round 17: *sc each of the first 7 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch* repeat * to * around. (54 stitches.

Insert 15 mm safety eyes between rounds 15 and 16 with 7 stitches between them.

Round 18 – Round 27: sc around.

Round 28: *sc2tog, sc each of the next 7 stitches* repeat * to * around.

Round 29: *sc2tog, sc each of the next 6 stitches* repeat * to * around. (42 stitches)

Begin stuffing head.

Round 30: *sc each of the next 5 stitches, sc2tog* repeat * to * around.

Round 31: *sc each of the next 4 stitches, sc2tog* repeat * to * around. (30 stitches)

Round 32: *sc2tog, sc each of the next 3 stitches* repeat * to * around.

Round 33: *sc2tog, sc each of the next 2 stitches* repeat * to * around. (18 stitches)

Finish stuffing head.

Round 34: *sc in first stitch, sc2tog* repeat * to * around.

Round 35: sc2tog around.

Fasten off, leave a tail. Use the tail to weave the remaining stitches closed.

Ears (make 2 in magenta and 2 in medium rose, starting with magenta)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around.

Round 3: *2 sc in first stitch, sc in next* repeat * to * around. (18 stitches)

Fasten off magenta pieces, continue on with medium rose pieces holding one magenta and one medium rose piece with the wrong sides facing each other.

Round 4: *2 sc in first stitch, sc each of the next 2 stitches* repeat * to * around.

Fold ear in half, slst 2 times to create a pinched look.

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing to head between round 25 and round 27.

Arms (magenta yarn, make 2)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around.

Round 3: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next stitch* repeat * to * around. (18 stitches)

Round 4: *2 sc in first stitch, sc each of the next 5* repeat * to * around.

Change to medium rose yarn.

Round 5: BLO sc around. (21 stitches)

Round 6 – Round 8: sc around.

Round 9: *sc2tog, sc each of the next 5 stitches* repeat * to * around. (18 stitches)

Round 10 – Round 12: sc around.

Round 13: *sc2tog, sc each of the next 4 stitches* repeat * to * around. (15 stitches)

Round 14 – Round 15: sc around.

Round 16: *sc2tog, sc each of the next 3 stitches* repeat * to * around. (12 stitches)

Lightly stuff arm, flatten top.

Round 17: holding round 16 of the arm closed, complete stitches through two layers of arm, sc 4 to close.

Fasten off.

Legs (magenta yarn, make 2)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around.

Round 3: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next* repeat * to * around. (18 stitches)

Round 4: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 2 stitches* repeat * to * around.

Change to medium rose yarn.

Round 5: BLO sc around.

Round 6 – Round 8: sc around.

Round 9: *sc2tog, sc next 6 stitches* repeat * to *around. (21 stitches)

Round 10 – Round 12: sc around.

Round 13: *sc2tog, sc next 5 stitches* repeat * to * around. (18 stitches)

Round 14 – Round 16: sc around.

Fasten off leg 1, repeat to create leg 2 and then continue to body.

Body (medium rose yarn)

Round 1: ch 3, attach stitch marker, begin working stitches in leg 1, sc 42 around both legs and all chains.

Round 2: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 6 stitches* repeat * to * around. (48 stitches)

Round 3 – Round 6: sc around.

Round 7: *sc2tog, sc next 6 stitches* repeat * to * around. (42 stitches)

Round 8 – Round 10: sc around.

Round 11: *sc2tog, sc next 5 stitches* repeat * to * around. (36 stitches)

Round 12 – Round 13: sc around.

Round 14: *sc2tog, sc next 4 stitches* repeat * to * around. (30 stitches)

Round 15: sc around.

Round 16: sc first 4, complete next series of stitches holding one arm up to the body and stitching through both to connect, sc 4, sc next 11 stitches of the body, complete next series of stitches holding one arm up to the body and stitching through both to connect, sc 4, sc remaining 7 stitches of the body.

Round 17: *sc2tog, sc next 3 stitches* repeat * to * around. (24 stitches)

Round 18: sc around.

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing to bottom of head between round 20 and round 25.

Party Hat (purple yarn)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: *2 sc in first stitch, sc in next 2* repeat * to * around. (8 stitches)

Round 3: *2 sc in first stitch, sc in next* repeat * to * around. (12 stitches)

Round 4: sc around.

Round 5: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 2* repeat * to * around. (16 stitches)

Round 6: sc around.

Round 7: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 3* repeat * to * around. (20 stitches)

Round 8: sc around.

Round 9: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 4* repeat * to * around. (24 stitches)

Round 10: sc around.

Round 11: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 5 stitches* repeat * to * around. (28 stitches)

Round 12: sc around.

Round 13: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 6* repeat * to * around. (32 stitches)

Round 14: sc around.

Change to magenta yarn.

Round 15: ch 2, FLO 3 dc in each stitch around, slst to first dc of round. (96 stitches)

Fasten off, place the hat over one ear and tack onto head.

Cut about 5 strands of magenta yarn, approximately 4 inches each, fold in half and loop onto round 1 of hat. Unravel each strand of yarn.

Cake (white yarn)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around.

Round 3: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next* repeat * to * around. (18 stitches)

Round 4: *2 sc in first stitch, sc each of the next 2 stitches* repeat * to * around.

Round 5: *2 sc in first stitch, bobble, sc each of the next 2 stitches* repeat * to * around. (30 stitches)

Round 6: BLO sc around.

Round 7 – Round 10: sc around.

Round 11: *sc, change to purple yarn, bobble, change to white yarn* repeat * to * around.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Cake Bottom (white yarn)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around.

Round 3: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next* repeat * to * around. (18 stitches)

Round 4: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 2* repeat * to * around.

Round 5: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 3 stitches* repeat * to * around. (30 stitches)

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing to round 11 of cake. Add stuffing to cake as you sew the bottom into place.

Candle (orange yarn)

Round 1: magic ring – 4 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in first stitch, sc next* repeat * to * around. (6 stitches)

Round 3: *sc2tog, sc next stitch* repeat * to * around. (4 stitches)

Change to purple yarn.

Round 4 – Round 7: sc around.

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing to round 1 of cake.

For a more printer-friendly pdf version of the pattern, check out ravelry!

The post Crochet a Birthday Celebration with Harriet the Hippo! appeared first on GETTING HOOKED ON CROCHET.

In case you’re new to plarn; I’ll walk you through creating your own.

First, flatten your bag and lay it out on the floor.

Then, fold the bag in half so that the handles are overlapping.

Next, fold it in half the same way.

Finally, cut off the bottom seam and the handles, and cut the remaining portion of bag into roughly 1 inch wide strips.

After you have cut up all of the bags (this project will take roughout 45-50 standard sized plastic shopping bags), you will unfold each loop and connect them together.

Now you’re ready to wind the plarn into a ball and crochet!

Plarn Hanging Bag

Base of Bag: ~10 inches x ~6 inches Height of Bag: ~15 inches

Supplies: 6.5 mm hook, plarn (~45-50 standard sized plastic shopping bags worth).

Stitch Abbreviations Used: ch – chain, sc – single crochet, dc – double crochet, inc – increase (2 single crochet stitches into the same stitch), slst – slip stitch, BLO – back loop only.

I choose to finish this bag with a loop at the top to be able to hang it and use it for storage (I collect empty shopping bags in it), you could also add a longer handle to make this into a reusable shopping bag of sorts if you would like instead. *Or check out my other plarn pattern, a reusable shopping bag!

Base

Round 1: ch 16, starting in the 2nd chain from hook, inc, sc next 13, 4 sc in next stitch, turn to continue working along the opposite side of the foundation chain, sc next 12, inc in final stitch.

Round 2: sc in first stitch, inc, sc next 13, inc, sc next 2, inc, sc next 13, inc, sc in final stitch of round.

Round 3: ch 2 (does not count as stitch here or throughout), dc in first stitch, dc inc, dc next 16, dc inc, dc next 3, dc inc, dc next 16, dc inc, dc last 2, slst to top of starting chain.

Round 4: ch 2, dc in first 2 stitches, dc inc, dc next 15, dc inc, dc next 6, dc inc, dc next 16, dc inc, dc last 4, slst to top of starting chain.

This is as big as the base will be. If you would like the base to be bigger, you can continue around increasing at the ‘corners’ until the base is the desired size.

Round 5: BLO sc around entire round.

Round 6 – Round 30: sc around (through both loops).

Round 31: sc in each stitch around to center of one of the long sides, ch 19, begin working in 2nd chain from hook, sc 18, holding the loose end of the ch 19, fold it over to the next stitch of round 30 on bag, slst through bag and chain section to create hanging loop, continue sc around to beginning of round, slsf nd.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Congratulations! You’ve created your own plarn bag! Don’t forget to check back here and on ravelry to find more plarn patterns to try out!

The post Turn Those Plastic Shopping Bags into Something New! appeared first on GETTING HOOKED ON CROCHET.