I’ve been returning to some of my favorite crochet blogs to make some hats with their patterns, but I’m also coming up with some of my own! Follow along if you have a little love in your life to create a hat for (or if you want to have some fun using up some excess yarn to donate)!

Baby Bear Beanie

Supplies Needed: worsted weight yarn, 5.0 mm crochet hook, yarn needle.

Stitch Abbreviations Used: hdc – half double crochet, sc – single crochet, slst – slip stitch, fphdc – front post half double crochet, bphdc – back post half double crochet.

Newborn Beanie

Round 1: magic ring – ch 2, 8 hdc into ring, slst to first stitch of round.

Round 2: ch 2, 2 hdc in each stitch around, slst to first stitch of round. (16 stitches)

Round 3: ch 2, *2 hdc, hdc next stitch* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch of round.

Round 4: ch 2, *hdc in first stitch, 2 hdc in next stitch, hdc in following stitch* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch around. (32 stitches)

Round 5: ch 2, *2 hdc in first stitch, hdc next 3* repeat * to * around. (40 stitches)

Round 6 – Round 10: ch 2, hdc around, slst to first stitch of round.

Round 11 – Round 12: ch 2, *fphdc in first, bphdc in next* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch of round.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Ears (make 2)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around.

Round 3: *2 sc in first stitch, sc in next* repeat * to * around. (18 stitches)

Round 4 – Round 6: sc around.

Round 7: *sc2tog, sc next 4* repeat * to * around. (15 stitches)

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing to top of hat. I usually sew the ears in a curved line between rounds 2 and 4 of the hat.

Top Knot Baby Beanie

Supplies Needed: worsted weight yarn, 5.0 mm crochet hook, yarn needle.

Stitch Abbreviations Used: hdc – half double crochet, slst – slip stitch, fphdc – front post half double crochet, bphdc – back post half double crochet.

Round 1: magic ring – ch 2, 6 hdc, slst to first stitch.

Round 2 – Round 10: ch 2, hdc around, slst to first stitch around.

Round 11: ch 2, *2 hdc in first, hdc next 2* repeat * to *. (8 stitches)

Round 12: ch 2, 2 hdc in each stitch around.

Round 13: ch 2, *2 hdc, hdc next stitch* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch of round.

Round 14: ch 2, *hdc in first stitch, 2 hdc in next stitch, hdc in following stitch* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch around. (32 stitches)

Round 15: ch 2, *2 hdc in first stitch, hdc next 3* repeat * to * around. (40 stitches)

Round 16 – Round 20: ch 2, hdc around, slst to first stitch of round.

Round 21 – Round 22: ch 2, *fphdc in first, bphdc in next* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch of round.

Fasten off, weave in ends. Tie a knot between round 1 and round 10.

The post Tiny Hats for Tiny Loves! appeared first on GETTING HOOKED ON CROCHET.

This easy, fun, and most importantly cute drool bib is the perfect way to keep your little one dry and full of team spirit!

Ty the Tiger Drool Bib

Supplies Needed: cotton yarn in orange, black, and white (I used Sugar ‘n Cream), H (5.0 mm) hook, and a button.

Stitch Abbreviations Used: sc – single crochet, slst – slip stitch, ch – chain, sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together, hdc – half double crochet, dc – double crochet, trc – treble crochet.

Bib (worked in rows, orange yarn)

Row 1: ch 17, begin stitches in 2nd chain from hook, 2 sc in first stitch, sc next 14, 2 sc in last chain, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: 2 sc in first stitch, sc next 16, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: 2 sc in first stitch, sc each of the next 18, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn. (22 stitches)

Row 4: 2 sc in first stitch, sc next 20, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: 2 sc in first stitch, sc next 22, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn.

Row 6: 2 sc in first stitch, sc next 24, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn.

Row 7 – Row 30: sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (28 stitches)

Row 31: sc 8, ch 1, turn. Leave remaining stitches of row 30 unworked.

Row 32: sc2tog, sc next 4, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 33 – Row 44: sc 6 across, ch 1, turn.

Row 45: sc2tog, sc next 2, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 46: sc2tog 2 times.

Fasten off. Attach yarn to opposite corner of row 30 and work rows 31-46 to create strap 2.

At the end of row 46 on strap two, ch 1 and sc around the entire bib. When you get to the top of strap 2, ch 6 and slst back to the top of strap 2 to create the button loop. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Attach the button to the top of strap 1.

Pupils (black yarn, make 2)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 hdc.

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing to the eye whites.

Eyes (white yarn, make 2)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around, slst to first stitch of round.

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing to 25 of the bib. Attach one pupil to each eye before sewing onto the bib.

Stripes (black yarn, make 6)

Row 1: ch 6, begin stitches in 2nd chain from hook, slst first stitch, sc next, hdc, dc, trc in final chain.

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing.

Attach to bib in groups of 2. Put one group in the center of the bib at row 30, pointing toward the bottom of the bib. Add other groups to either side of the bib at row 15, pointing toward to opposite side of the bib.

Cheeks (white yarn, make 2)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around.

Round 3: *2 sc in first stitch, sc in next* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch of round.

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing to bib so that the top of each cheek is touching row 14. Leave about 3 stitches between the cheeks.

Embroider whiskers onto each cheek with black yarn.

Nose (black yarn)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 stitches)

Round 3: sc first 3 stitches, ch 2, sc next 6 stitches, ch 2, sc final 3 stitches, ch 2, slst to first stitch of round.

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing so that the top of the nose (the sc 6 section) touches tow 17 and the edges touch the cheeks on either side.

Ears (make 2, orange yarn)

Row 1: ch 9, begin stitches in 2nd chain from hook, sc 8, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: sc2tog, sc next 4, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: sc2tog, sc next 2 stitches, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: sc2tog two times, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: sc2tog.

Fasten off, weave in ends. Sew row 1 of each ear on an angle to each side of the bib between rows 25 and 30 of the bib.

The post Ty the Tiger Baby Drool Bib: Perfect Tigers Baseball Gear for Your Little Fan appeared first on GETTING HOOKED ON CROCHET.

Elfie the Elephant Drool Bib

Supplies: cotton yarn in your choice of main color (~1 skein of Sugar ‘n Cream) and inner ear color (small amount), black cotton yarn, white yarn scraps, H hook, and 2 buttons.

Stitch Abbreviations Used: sc – single crochet, slst – slip stitch, ch – chain, sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together, hdc – half double crochet.

Bib (worked in rows, main color)

Row 1: ch 17, begin stitches in 2nd chain from hook, sc 16, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: 2 sc in first stitch, sc each of the next 14 stitches, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: 2 sc in first stitch, sc next 16, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn. (20 stitches)

Row 4: 2 sc in first stitch, sc next 18 stitches, 2 sc in last, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: 2 sc in first stitch, sc next 20, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn.

Row 6 – Row 30: sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (24 stitches)

Row 31: sc 6, ch 1, turn. Leave remaining stitches of row 30 unworked.

Row 32 – Row 44: sc 4, ch 1, turn.

Row 45: sc2tog, sc 2, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 46: sc2tog two times.

Fasten off.

Attach yarn to the opposite end of row 30 and work rows 31-46 to create strap 2.

At the end of row 46 on strap 2, ch 1, sc around entire bib. When you get to the top of strap 2, ch 6 and slst into the same stitch to create button loop. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Attach button to top of strap 1.

Trunk (main color, worked in rows)

Row 1: ch 13, begin stitches in 2nd chain from hook, sc 12, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: sc2tog, sc next 8, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: sc2tog, sc 6, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 6: sc2tog, sc next 4, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 7: sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 8: sc2tog, sc next 2, sc 2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 10: sc2tog, sc, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn.

Row 11 – Row 12: sc across, ch 1, turn. (4 stitches)

Row 13: 2 sc in first stitch, sc, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 14 – Row 15: sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 16: sc2tog, sc, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn.

Row 17 – Row 18: sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 19: 2 sc in first stitch, sc, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 20 – Row 21: sc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 22: sc2tog, sc, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn.

Row 23 – Row 24: sc across, ch 1, turn, sc around entire edge, when you get to opposite end of row 24, sc, slst, ch 8, begin slsts in 5th chain from hook, slst 4 along chain, slst to trunk, slst to turning chain.

Optional: If you don’t want to pacifier clip loop on the trunk, just sc around the entire edge.

Fasten off, sew to center of bib at row 19.

Attach a button to the underside of trunk at row 24, this is where you will secure the pacifier loop.

Large Ear Circles (inner ear color, make 2)

Round 1: magic ring – ch 2, 6 hdc, slst to first hdc.

Round 2: ch 2, 2 hdc in each stitch around, slst to first hdc of round.

Round 3: ch 2, *2 hdc in first stitch, 2 hdc in next* repeat * to * around, slst to first hdc of round. (18 stitches)

Round 4: ch 2, *2 hdc in first stitch, hdc in each of the next 2* repeat * to * around, slst to first hdc of round.

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing to smaller ear circle.

Small Ear Circle (inner ear color, make 2)

Round 1: magic ring – ch 2, 6 hdc, slst to first hdc.

Round 2: ch 2, 2 hdc in each stitch around, slst to first hdc of round.

Round 3: ch 2, *2 hdc in first stitch, hdc in next* repeat * to * around, slst to first stitch of round.

Fasten off, weave in tail. Sew one small and one large inner ear circle together using 4 stitches of each ear piece to create each of the ears.

Ear Edging (main color, worked on each of the ears after circles are attached to each other)

Round 1: attach yarn to one of the stitches closest to where you connected the circles, ch 2, *2 hdc in first stitch, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 stitches* repeat * to * around. 2 hdc in last stitch, slst to first hdc of round.

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing ears to the outer edges on each side of the bib.

Eyes (black yarn, make 2)

Round 1: magic ring – ch 1, 6 hdc.

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing to bib.

Create a french knot on each eye with white yarn scraps before sewing onto the bib at row 25.

Let me know what type of bib you’d like to see next!

The post Lets Have Some Ele-FUN-t Making a New Drool Bib! appeared first on GETTING HOOKED ON CROCHET.

If you grew up in the 90s, you definitely remember the iconic corner toy hammock overflowing with Beanie Babies and your favorite plushies. That colorful net swinging in the corner wasn’t just storage — it was a statement. Today, 90s bedroom decor is making a major comeback, and this free beginner-friendly crochet toy hammock pattern brings all the nostalgic vibes with a handmade twist. Whether you’re channeling retro pastel bedrooms, Y2K aesthetics, or just need a cute way to organize stuffed animals, this easy crochet project is the perfect throwback-meets-functional decor piece for any cozy space.

Crochet Toy Hammock Pattern

Supplies Needed: worsted weight yarn, 3.75 mm crochet hook, yarn needle.

Stitch Abbreviations Used: ch – chain, dc – double crochet, sc – single crochet.

*Finished measurement – corner to front edge was roughly 32 inches when I completed. You can easily adjust the size to be bigger or smaller but stopping the repeated pattern rows earlier or continuing to follow the same pattern beyond the listed rows.

Toy Hammock

Row 1: ch 3, begin stitches in furthest chain from hook, 2 dc in same stitch, turn work.

Row 2: ch 5 (counts as first stitch of row and creates the first chain space, here and throughout), dc, ch 3, dc next stitch, turn work.

Row 3: ch 5, *dc in chain space, ch 3* 2 times, dc in 2nd chain of previous row turning chain, turn work.

Row 4: ch 5, *dc in chain space, ch 3* 3 times, dc in 2nd chain of previous row turning chain, turn work.

Row 5 – Row 48: continue with same pattern, adding one additional *dc in chain space, ch 3* repetition to each row, turn work.

Row 49: ch 5, *dc in chain space, ch 3* 48 times, dc in 2nd chain of previous row turn chain, turn work.

Row 50: ch 1, 2 sc in first stitch, 3 sc in chain space, *sc, 3 sc in chain space* repeat across, 2 sc in 2nd chain of previous row turn chain, turn work.

Row 51 – Row 54: ch 1 (does not count as stitch), sc across, turn work.

Row 55: sc around outer edge. At each corner, add a chain 4 loop (sc in corner, ch 4, sc in same corner stitch again to create loop).

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Congrats! You’ve completed a super cute toy hammock to store all sorts of toys!

Hanging

We used some photo/art hanging hooks, but you could also use command hooks for a more temporary solution.

Find the corner where you would like to hang your toy hammock, in the corner. Measure and place a hook 32 inches in each direction from your corner hook.

Now, all that is left to do is to attach each corner loop to the hooks you just placed and fill up the hammock with all your favorite animals!

Don’t forget to send me a picture of your finished creation and check back for more fun projects here!

The post Recreate Some 90s Bedroom Style with this Crochet Toy Hammock Throwback Pattern! appeared first on GETTING HOOKED ON CROCHET.

This is a fun, beginner-friendly pattern perfect for a stuffed animal loving birthday celebration!

Harriet the “Happy Birthday” Hippo

Supplies Needed: medium rose yarn, magenta yarn, purple yarn, white yarn, a small amount of orange yarn, a pair of 15 mm safety eyes, 3.5 mm crochet hook, yarn needle, and polyfil stuffing.

Stitch Abbreviations Used: ch – chain, sc – single crochet, sc2tog, single crochet two together, slst – slip stitch, hdc – half double crochet, bobble – 4 double crochet bobble stitch, FLO – front loop only, BLO – back loop only.

Approximate Finished Size: using a 3.5 mm hook and worsted weight yarn, Harriet the Hippo measures about 9 inches tall.

Head (medium rose yarn)

Round 1: ch 7, begin stitches in 2nd chain from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last chain, turn to continue working along to opposite side of the foundation chain, sc 4, 2 sc in last stitch. (14 stitches)

Round 2: 2 sc in first stitch, sc each of the next 4 stitches, 2 sc in each of the next 3 stitches, sc next 4, 2 sc in each of the last 2 stitches.

Round 3: *2 sc in first stitch, 1 sc in next stitch, sc each of the next 4 stitches, repeat * to * 3 times, sc each of the next 4 stitches, repeat * to * 2 times. (26 stitches)

Round 4: 2 sc in first stitch, sc each of the next 10 stitches, 2 sc in each of the next 3 stitches, sc next 10, 2 sc in each of the last 2 stitches.

Round 5: 2 sc in first stitch, sc each of the next 12 stitches, *2 sc in first stitch, sc next* repeat * to * 2 times, sc each of the next 13 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, sc in last stitch. (36 stitches)

Round 6: sc each of the first 5 stitches, bobble, sc next 5, bobble, sc each of the next 24 stitches.

Round 7 – Round 9: sc around.

Round 10: *sc2tog, sc next 4* repeat * to * around. (30 stitches)

Round 11: *sc2tog, sc next 3* repeat * to * around. (24 stitches)

Round 12: sc around.

You have now created the nose/snout, you will continue working to create the rest of the head.

Round 13: sc each of the first 2 stitches, 2 sc in each of the next 6 stitches, sc each of the next 16 stitches.

Round 14: sc each of the first 2 stitches, *2 sc in next stitch, sc next* repeat * to * 6 times, sc each of the next 16 stitches. (36 stitches)

Round 15: sc each of the first 2 stitches, *2 sc in first stitch, sc each of the next 2 stitches* repeat * to * 6 times, sc each of the next 16 stitches. (42 stitches)

Round 16: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 6 stitches* repeat * to * around. (48 stitches)

Round 17: *sc each of the first 7 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch* repeat * to * around. (54 stitches.

Insert 15 mm safety eyes between rounds 15 and 16 with 7 stitches between them.

Round 18 – Round 27: sc around.

Round 28: *sc2tog, sc each of the next 7 stitches* repeat * to * around.

Round 29: *sc2tog, sc each of the next 6 stitches* repeat * to * around. (42 stitches)

Begin stuffing head.

Round 30: *sc each of the next 5 stitches, sc2tog* repeat * to * around.

Round 31: *sc each of the next 4 stitches, sc2tog* repeat * to * around. (30 stitches)

Round 32: *sc2tog, sc each of the next 3 stitches* repeat * to * around.

Round 33: *sc2tog, sc each of the next 2 stitches* repeat * to * around. (18 stitches)

Finish stuffing head.

Round 34: *sc in first stitch, sc2tog* repeat * to * around.

Round 35: sc2tog around.

Fasten off, leave a tail. Use the tail to weave the remaining stitches closed.

Ears (make 2 in magenta and 2 in medium rose, starting with magenta)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around.

Round 3: *2 sc in first stitch, sc in next* repeat * to * around. (18 stitches)

Fasten off magenta pieces, continue on with medium rose pieces holding one magenta and one medium rose piece with the wrong sides facing each other.

Round 4: *2 sc in first stitch, sc each of the next 2 stitches* repeat * to * around.

Fold ear in half, slst 2 times to create a pinched look.

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing to head between round 25 and round 27.

Arms (magenta yarn, make 2)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around.

Round 3: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next stitch* repeat * to * around. (18 stitches)

Round 4: *2 sc in first stitch, sc each of the next 5* repeat * to * around.

Change to medium rose yarn.

Round 5: BLO sc around. (21 stitches)

Round 6 – Round 8: sc around.

Round 9: *sc2tog, sc each of the next 5 stitches* repeat * to * around. (18 stitches)

Round 10 – Round 12: sc around.

Round 13: *sc2tog, sc each of the next 4 stitches* repeat * to * around. (15 stitches)

Round 14 – Round 15: sc around.

Round 16: *sc2tog, sc each of the next 3 stitches* repeat * to * around. (12 stitches)

Lightly stuff arm, flatten top.

Round 17: holding round 16 of the arm closed, complete stitches through two layers of arm, sc 4 to close.

Fasten off.

Legs (magenta yarn, make 2)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around.

Round 3: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next* repeat * to * around. (18 stitches)

Round 4: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 2 stitches* repeat * to * around.

Change to medium rose yarn.

Round 5: BLO sc around.

Round 6 – Round 8: sc around.

Round 9: *sc2tog, sc next 6 stitches* repeat * to *around. (21 stitches)

Round 10 – Round 12: sc around.

Round 13: *sc2tog, sc next 5 stitches* repeat * to * around. (18 stitches)

Round 14 – Round 16: sc around.

Fasten off leg 1, repeat to create leg 2 and then continue to body.

Body (medium rose yarn)

Round 1: ch 3, attach stitch marker, begin working stitches in leg 1, sc 42 around both legs and all chains.

Round 2: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 6 stitches* repeat * to * around. (48 stitches)

Round 3 – Round 6: sc around.

Round 7: *sc2tog, sc next 6 stitches* repeat * to * around. (42 stitches)

Round 8 – Round 10: sc around.

Round 11: *sc2tog, sc next 5 stitches* repeat * to * around. (36 stitches)

Round 12 – Round 13: sc around.

Round 14: *sc2tog, sc next 4 stitches* repeat * to * around. (30 stitches)

Round 15: sc around.

Round 16: sc first 4, complete next series of stitches holding one arm up to the body and stitching through both to connect, sc 4, sc next 11 stitches of the body, complete next series of stitches holding one arm up to the body and stitching through both to connect, sc 4, sc remaining 7 stitches of the body.

Round 17: *sc2tog, sc next 3 stitches* repeat * to * around. (24 stitches)

Round 18: sc around.

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing to bottom of head between round 20 and round 25.

Party Hat (purple yarn)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: *2 sc in first stitch, sc in next 2* repeat * to * around. (8 stitches)

Round 3: *2 sc in first stitch, sc in next* repeat * to * around. (12 stitches)

Round 4: sc around.

Round 5: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 2* repeat * to * around. (16 stitches)

Round 6: sc around.

Round 7: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 3* repeat * to * around. (20 stitches)

Round 8: sc around.

Round 9: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 4* repeat * to * around. (24 stitches)

Round 10: sc around.

Round 11: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 5 stitches* repeat * to * around. (28 stitches)

Round 12: sc around.

Round 13: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 6* repeat * to * around. (32 stitches)

Round 14: sc around.

Change to magenta yarn.

Round 15: ch 2, FLO 3 dc in each stitch around, slst to first dc of round. (96 stitches)

Fasten off, place the hat over one ear and tack onto head.

Cut about 5 strands of magenta yarn, approximately 4 inches each, fold in half and loop onto round 1 of hat. Unravel each strand of yarn.

Cake (white yarn)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around.

Round 3: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next* repeat * to * around. (18 stitches)

Round 4: *2 sc in first stitch, sc each of the next 2 stitches* repeat * to * around.

Round 5: *2 sc in first stitch, bobble, sc each of the next 2 stitches* repeat * to * around. (30 stitches)

Round 6: BLO sc around.

Round 7 – Round 10: sc around.

Round 11: *sc, change to purple yarn, bobble, change to white yarn* repeat * to * around.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Cake Bottom (white yarn)

Round 1: magic ring – 6 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around.

Round 3: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next* repeat * to * around. (18 stitches)

Round 4: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 2* repeat * to * around.

Round 5: *2 sc in first stitch, sc next 3 stitches* repeat * to * around. (30 stitches)

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing to round 11 of cake. Add stuffing to cake as you sew the bottom into place.

Candle (orange yarn)

Round 1: magic ring – 4 sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in first stitch, sc next* repeat * to * around. (6 stitches)

Round 3: *sc2tog, sc next stitch* repeat * to * around. (4 stitches)

Change to purple yarn.

Round 4 – Round 7: sc around.

Fasten off, leave tail for sewing to round 1 of cake.

For a more printer-friendly pdf version of the pattern, check out ravelry!

The post Crochet a Birthday Celebration with Harriet the Hippo! appeared first on GETTING HOOKED ON CROCHET.

In case you’re new to plarn; I’ll walk you through creating your own.

First, flatten your bag and lay it out on the floor.

Then, fold the bag in half so that the handles are overlapping.

Next, fold it in half the same way.

Finally, cut off the bottom seam and the handles, and cut the remaining portion of bag into roughly 1 inch wide strips.

After you have cut up all of the bags (this project will take roughout 45-50 standard sized plastic shopping bags), you will unfold each loop and connect them together.

Now you’re ready to wind the plarn into a ball and crochet!

Plarn Hanging Bag

Base of Bag: ~10 inches x ~6 inches Height of Bag: ~15 inches

Supplies: 6.5 mm hook, plarn (~45-50 standard sized plastic shopping bags worth).

Stitch Abbreviations Used: ch – chain, sc – single crochet, dc – double crochet, inc – increase (2 single crochet stitches into the same stitch), slst – slip stitch, BLO – back loop only.

I choose to finish this bag with a loop at the top to be able to hang it and use it for storage (I collect empty shopping bags in it), you could also add a longer handle to make this into a reusable shopping bag of sorts if you would like instead. *Or check out my other plarn pattern, a reusable shopping bag!

Base

Round 1: ch 16, starting in the 2nd chain from hook, inc, sc next 13, 4 sc in next stitch, turn to continue working along the opposite side of the foundation chain, sc next 12, inc in final stitch.

Round 2: sc in first stitch, inc, sc next 13, inc, sc next 2, inc, sc next 13, inc, sc in final stitch of round.

Round 3: ch 2 (does not count as stitch here or throughout), dc in first stitch, dc inc, dc next 16, dc inc, dc next 3, dc inc, dc next 16, dc inc, dc last 2, slst to top of starting chain.

Round 4: ch 2, dc in first 2 stitches, dc inc, dc next 15, dc inc, dc next 6, dc inc, dc next 16, dc inc, dc last 4, slst to top of starting chain.

This is as big as the base will be. If you would like the base to be bigger, you can continue around increasing at the ‘corners’ until the base is the desired size.

Round 5: BLO sc around entire round.

Round 6 – Round 30: sc around (through both loops).

Round 31: sc in each stitch around to center of one of the long sides, ch 19, begin working in 2nd chain from hook, sc 18, holding the loose end of the ch 19, fold it over to the next stitch of round 30 on bag, slst through bag and chain section to create hanging loop, continue sc around to beginning of round, slsf nd.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Congratulations! You’ve created your own plarn bag! Don’t forget to check back here and on ravelry to find more plarn patterns to try out!

The post Turn Those Plastic Shopping Bags into Something New! appeared first on GETTING HOOKED ON CROCHET.

Don’t know how to make plarn, yet? Don’t worry! I’ll post a tutorial next with a pattern for a plarn bag holder!

Plarn Reusable Tote

Supplies Needed: plarn, 6.0 mm hook, yarn needle.

Stitch Abbreviations Used: ch – chain, sc – single crochet, hdc – half double crochet, slst – slip stitch, BLO – back loop only.

Bag (worked in rounds)

Round 1: ch 21, begin stitches in second chain from hook, 2 sc in same stitch, sc each of the next 18, 4 sc in last chain, turn work to continue stitches along the back side of the foundation chain, sc next 18 stitches, 2 sc in last stitch.

Round 2: 2 sc in each of the first 2 stitches, sc next 18, 2 sc in each of the next 4 stitches, sc next 18, 2 sc in each of the last 2 stitches. (52 stitches)

Round 3: sc first 3 stitches, ch 2, sc each of the next 21 stitches, ch 2, sc next 5, ch 2, sc next 21, ch 2, sc last 2 stitches.

Round 4: hdc each of the first 3 stitches, 2 hdc in chain space of previous round, hdc next 21 stitches, 2 hdc in chain space, hdc next 5, 2 hdc in chain space, hdc next 21 stitches, 2 hdc in chain space, hdc each of the last 2 stitches. (60 stitches)

Round 5: hdc in each of the first 4 stitches, ch 2, hdc next 21, ch 2, hdc next 9, ch 2, hdc next 21 stitches, ch 2, hdc last 5 stitches.

Round 6: sc each of the first 4 stitches, 2 sc in chain space of previous round, sc next 21, 2 sc in chain space, sc next 8, 2 sc in chain space, sc next 21 stitches, 2 sc in chain space, sc last 5.

Round 7: sc first 5 stitches, ch 2, sc next 22, ch 2, sc next 9 stitches, ch 2, sc next 22, ch 2, sc last 4.

Round 8: sc first 5 stitches, 2 sc in chain space of previous round, sc next 22, 2 sc in chain space, sc next 9, 2 sc in chain space, sc next 22 stitches, 2 sc in chain space, sc last 4 stitches.

Round 8 completes the base of the bag.

Round 9: BLO sc each stitch around.

Round 10 – Round 33: sc around.

Round 34: sc around, slst to first stitch of round.

Round 35: sc first 5 stitches, create the first strap, sc next 9 stitches, create the second strap, sc last 4 stitches, slst to first stitch of round.

Fasten off, weave in ends using large yarn needle.

Strap Round

Row 1: sc next 5 stitches, ch 1, turn.

Row 2 – Row 39: sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn.

Row 39: skip next 16 stitches of round 35, slst 5 to connect row 39 of strap to round 34 of bag.

Do not fasten off, continue with remainder of round 35 on bag.

Happy shopping! Don’t forget to check beck here for more patterns coming soon!

The post Reduce, Reuse…Crochet? Learn to Turn Plastic Shopping Bags into Colorful Reusable Totes! appeared first on GETTING HOOKED ON CROCHET.

Corner-to-Corner Basics

For this method of crochet, you work beginning in one corner of the project and work your way across to the opposite corner constantly working on a diagonal.

After choosing your starting corner, you will start with a foundation chain of 6. You will skip the 3 chains closest to the hook and complete a dc in each of the remaining 3 chains. You will then repeat this sequence to create the next square. After the 3rd dc, you will slip stitch into the chain space of previous square. Once you complete the slip stitch, chain 3 and complete 3 dc into the same chain space as the slip stitch. Repeat this process across the row.

Once you reach the widest point of the work, you will no longer chain 6 at the start of each row, but rather complete a chain 3 and then work the stitches into the chain space of the previous row.

To start decreasing, you will turn your work at the end of the previous row and slip stitch across the first 3 dc stitches of the previous block and into the chain space. You will then build the row in the same manner as the previous rows.

If you benefit more from visual learning, there are some great tutorials available on YouTube. That is where I learned!

Bunny Booty Corner-to-Corner Banner

Supplies Needed: E (3.5 mm) hook, worsted weight yarn in 2 colors, optional: a wooden dowel to weave in between the squares across the top of the banner to create more stability when hanging.

End Product Measurements: 12.25 inches by 22 inches.

In my example, I chose to hold both colors of yarn and create a long chain to attach to each of the top corners for hanging. You could also use twine or ribbon if you choose.

I hope you love your Bunny Booty C2C Banner! Check back for more fun holiday designs coming soon!

The post Get Ready for Easter with a Cute Bunny Booty C2C Banner! appeared first on GETTING HOOKED ON CROCHET.

Corner-to-Corner Basics

For this method of crochet, you work beginning in one corner of the project and work your way across to the opposite corner constantly working on a diagonal.

After choosing your starting corner, you will start with a foundation chain of 6. You will skip the 3 chains closest to the hook and complete a dc in each of the remaining 3 chains. You will then repeat this sequence to create the next square. After the 3rd dc, you will slip stitch into the chain space of previous square. Once you complete the slip stitch, chain 3 and complete 3 dc into the same chain space as the slip stitch. Repeat this process across the row.

Once you reach the widest point of the work, you will no longer chain 6 at the start of each row, but rather complete a chain 3 and then work the stitches into the chain space of the previous row.

To start decreasing, you will turn your work at the end of the previous row and slip stitch across the first 3 dc stitches of the previous block and into the chain space. You will then build the row in the same manner as the previous rows.

If you benefit more from visual learning, there are some great tutorials available on YouTube. That is where I learned!

Floating Hearts Corner-to-Corner Banner

Supplies Needed: E (3.5 mm) hook, worsted weight yarn in 2 colors, optional: a wooden dowel to weave in between the squares across the top of the banner to create more stability when hanging.

End Product Measurements: 12.25 inches by 22 inches.

In my example, I chose to hold both colors of yarn and create a long chain to attach to each of the top corners for hanging. You could also use twine or ribbon if you choose.

I hope you love your Floating Hearts C2C Banner! Check back for more fun holiday designs coming soon!

The post Explore Corner-to-Corner Crochet with a Floating Hearts Banner! appeared first on GETTING HOOKED ON CROCHET.

Santa Drool Bib

Supplies Needed: Cotton yarn in red, black, white, and yellow/gold (I prefer Lily Sugar ‘n Cream), 5.0 (H) hook, and a 1/2 inch button.

Stitch Abbreviations Used: sc – single crochet, slst – slip stitch, ch – chain, sc2tog – single crochet 2 together, dc – double crochet.

Bib (worked in rows, begin with red yarn)

Row 1: ch 27, begin stitches in 2nd chain from hook, sc 26 across, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: 2 sc in first stitch, sc next 24, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn.

Row 3 – Row 10: sc 28 across, ch 1, turn.

Change to black yarn.

Row 11 – Row 15: sc 28 across, ch 1, turn.

Change to red yarn.

Row 16 – Row 30: sc 28 across, ch 1, turn.

Now you will continue with the red yarn to create the first strap.

Row 31: sc 8 stitches, leave remaining stitches of row 30 unworked, ch 1, turn.

Row 32: sc2tog, sc next 6, ch 1, turn.

Row 33 – Row 44: sc 7 across, ch 1, turn.

Row 45: sc2tog, sc next 3, sc2tog, ch 1, turn.

Row 46: sc2tog, sc next stitch, sc2tog.

Fasten off, attach red yarn to opposite corner of row 30, ch 1, and repeat rows 31-46.

When you finish row 46 on the second strap, change to white yarn, then sc around the entire edge of bib to top of strap 1. At the top of strap one, sc 2 times, ch 8, sc in the same stitch (this creates a loop for buttoning the bib on), sc in the next stitch, continue to sc around to top of strap 2. Weave in ends. Add a button to top of strap 2.

Lets add the details…

Picking up the yellow/gold yarn, surface slst a rectangle around the center of the bib between rows 11 and 15 to create Santa’s belt clasp.

Congrats! You’ve made an adorable Santa Suit Drool Bib for the little one in your life. If you want more options of holiday themed bibs, be sure to look for the Snowman Bib here! You can check out the listing on Ravelry to get Rudolph pattern too!

The post Sleigh the Holidays with This Adorable Crochet Baby Santa Suit Drool Bib! appeared first on GETTING HOOKED ON CROCHET.